Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historic Park

Maybe a good hiker trail for those used to drinking dirty water, but it's an endurance test for cyclists.
By Ian Brett Cooper in June, 2011
I just completed a bicycle trip this weekend with my daughter along the trail from Silver Spring to Brunswick, MD. In the spirit, hopefully, of constructive criticism, here are my experiences and thoughts...

The idea was to cycle from our home in Silver Spring, MD to Harper's Ferry, WV. It didn't quite work out that way in the end. We nearly got there, but the trail conditions made it more of a chore than I was willing to accept.

We cycled 18 miles along the Capital Crescent Trail, then along the C&O and camped at Swain's Lock on June 2nd. There are water pumps at every campground, but the one at Swain's Lock wasn't working. Fortunately I had a day's supply on the bike, so water was not a pressing need - yet. We saw very few campers on the trail. We only saw one other tent in the campgrounds between DC & Brunswick. Lovely weather and we saw lots of nice scenery and wildlife. Not a big fan of the trail itself though - gravel, pebbles, pot-holes and the occasional mud patch made cycling very uncomfortable, slow and dangerous. I understand the trail is an historical towpath, and clearly part of its appeal lies in its preservation as such, but it would, I feel, take some imagination to honestly describe this as a trail fit for a bicycle. The first day was just 18 miles, and would normally take 2 hours tops, but it took me over 3 hours.

The second day, with the state of the trail getting worse, I almost gave up and headed onto the road to Point of Rocks via Darnestown and Dickerson. But not having brought detailed road maps I decided to stick it out for one more day until we reached Brunswick. I reckon the state of the trail made cycling about twice as difficult and twice as slow as cycling on asphalt. The trip to Brunswick was 38 miles and we averaged about 5mph - about what a cyclist would expect over a poor dirt track (which is what the C&O Trail really is). That, and the lack of any nearby food and water supplies from Great Falls Tavern until Point of Rocks made it a bit of an endurance test. The supposedly potable water from pumps along the trail looked very suspicious - so much so that my daughter pleaded with me not to drink it. I think it was Chisel Branch where I found a dead deer in the canal within about ten yards of the water pump. This didn't exactly fill me with confidence about the water. Shortly thereafter we met a park ranger whom I notified about the deer - she was kind enough to offer us a couple of bottles of water. At Brunswick I cut the trip short and met my wife and we drove the final six miles to Harper's Ferry.

I must admit, I'll not be trying this again until the surface is better-suited to bicycle travel - although I'm not sure that will ever happen. My back just can't take all that jarring, and to be honest I was worried about the bike, since it was carrying/dragging about 350lbs-worth of humans, trailer-bike and equipment. I suppose it proved my bike's ability to withstand abuse, but still, not something I'd ever think of repeating unless I was forced.

It will be a lovely trail - fit even for bicycles - when it's finished, LOL. Hopefully in the meantime, hikers and can get more out of it than I did.
Early American history at its prime!
By Farry in October, 2010
After logging my first 28 miles (Cumberland to Paw Paw) on the C&O in April 04 on a Next brand bike I started into the historical aspects of the canal. This trail defines America in its infancy from the surveys of George Washington through the industrial revolution. I often ride along and imagine the workers digging the trench coupled with illness, feuds and floods. No; this trail needs to be rough to remind the riders of the hard work that went into building and running the canal. Definitely not for road bikes (mine is a full suspension)

On the biking side; the canal is good for biking the total length or just some great day rides for beginners and serious riders. But by all means be prepared to fix things that come up on the trail or depend on the other courteous riders or find yourself walking out. Some sections during week days you may not see any one for 15 to 20 miles other week end days you may trip over bikers and hikers. Since my first ride I have logged many miles on the C&O (some with scout troops) and have enjoyed every one of them.
And Adventure of a Lifetime!
By joncott in August, 2010
We did the trail from DC to Cumberland and on to Pittsburgh early this summer. Lucked out in that it was unseasonably hot before and after our trip. The scenery was spectacular. Wish I could say the same for the trail surface. Something I heard repeatedly was the suggestion that the C&O assign sections to various outside groups to maintain, much the same as the GAP. I found myself longing for a full suspension the further we rode from DC. One cyclist claimed the bird watchers didn't want any more bicycles on the trail so they discouraged maintenance. I found that hard to believe. The biggest issue was not being able to enjoy the scenery as much as I would have liked because I was too busy dodging pot-holes. I was quite thankful we didn't encounter any rain while we were touring. Campsites are frequent and nice and over all it was enjoyable and quite the adventure, but the second leg of the trip on the GAP shed a bad light on the first leg. If you need any help on the trail, please shoot me an email!
Perfect ride
By llopresto in August, 2010
My family and I rode this trail at the end of July. We rode from Georgetown to the Great Falls of the Potomac. From our hotel in DuPont Circle it was approximately 30 miles round trip. My 10 and 8 year old sons rode the trail without any problems. The 8 year old only has 16 inch wheels on his bike-he peddled his heart out. The views were breath taking all the way along the path. Riding past the locks out to the falls was a great lesson in history. We missed riding the Capital Crescent trail on the way out but certainly caught in on the way back. It made it easier to finish the last few miles strong. As noted, the trail roughness is a 2-certainly not a path for slicks. We ran into trouble about 8 miles into the ride, my 10 year old son's chain froze. 2 passer-bys stopped to give us a hand. We didn't have any tools and thankfully one of the men had just what we needed to fix the chain. There are no stops to buy anything along the way so make sure you bring your tools and any food or drink you may want. The boathouse is so early on in the trip if you start in Georgetown, so that really doesn't count and the food and drink at the Falls isn't all that great. There is a bathroom and water fountain. The view of the Falls was breathtaking. I would love to see it full of rushing water. This is certainly a trip we will do again.
C&O Canal
By TopShelf in April, 2010
The C&O Canal is a great ride, but it's not for everyone. It's not a smooth, paved urban trail. It's a double-track dirt or gravel path over most of its length, and it can get muddy. But if you want to have an adventure beyond where the pavement ends - this is a great trail. For anyone contemplating doing this trail, be sure to check out the Bike Washington web site for the trail which lists campgrounds, hotels, restaurants, bike shops and a lot more for the 184.5 miles of the trail. As for being rough going after a rain - it can be. It shouldn't be attempted with a street bike. But it was not a problem with my trusty steed - a 1995 Schwinn Searcher Express with 700 x 38C tires.
Mike
By mad56 in March, 2010
I rode threw there this past summer on my way from Ohio to DC. The C & O and the Allegheny were the best trail I have ever ridden. The Allegeny was a bit smoother than the C&O. The C&O looks like it could be very miserable if it is raining. Fortunately I had dry weather. Camping was plentiful and there were great things to see. For the comment about tire size, I use a touring bike (Trek 520) with 700X32 Schwalbe Marathon Supreme tires and they worked great.
Nice for camping
By figaro in January, 2010
We took a 260 mile trip both ways from Brunswick to Cumberland, late last summer. Very nice campgrounds and
they have old fashioned water pumps( water very rusty) would suggest boiling water before consuming. Very nice trip would suggest anybody do it. most scenic and relaxing campsite was devils backbone
Biking with road bike
By ncbill69 in June, 2009
What is the narrowest tire can one ride a tandem on the C & ) Canal?
SE section
By TimBee in May, 2008
I rode from Pennyfield Lock into Georgetown on a beautiful April day. The scenery around Great Falls was spectacular. It would have been nice with more amenities and a nearby convenience store or cafe every now & then. I've gotten used to asphalt trails in MN & find the pace on limestone tedious.
C&O Canal Remains a Classic Tour Route
By tomknoerzer@aol.com in February, 2008
I have been riding on the C&O Canal for more than 15 years, and leading group tours on the trail for 14. In all those years, the trail has never lost its charm, beauty, or intrigue, and each time I ride it, I see something new that I was not aware of previously. For those who have ridden it once, it is a different ride going the opposite direction. For example, when riding east to west and passing the cliffs along the slackwater section west of mile 89, you see the beauty of the Potomac River and its backdrop, but you easily miss the cave in the bluff above you, while riding west to east, you will very likely see it plain as day. As another example, the structures look very differnt when viewed in the morning or the afternoon, depending on the direction of the sun and amount of light, so if you have the chance to ride both ways, you will get different views (and photos).

Spring and Fall have been ideal for this trail, as the brush is not so overgrown onto the trail, where you could brush up against tall stinging nettles (if allergic, they itch for a few weeks), and the views through to the river are great. In the fall, the color of the leaves makes for a very special ride.

We have noticed an increasing variety and number of wildlife along the remote trail sections. Deer, great blue herons and turtles (in the watered areas) are very common. Just west of Old Town (mile 167), there are some impressive beaver dams and beaver trails in the water, and near to Cumberland (around mile 178), there is a watered section that has american river otters.

With the connection to the Great Allegheny Passage now complete, continuing west includes many wild turkey frequently crossing the trail (or just hanging out along it). The dichotomy of the water-powered history and way of life contrasts with the steam-engine powered railroad history, the travel over the mountains, as opposed to around and through them, and the railroad inspired towns are evident along the trail. The two trails together have been extremely scenic and enjoyable -- all within just a few miles of many towns, including the two major cities that anchor the ends, Washington, DC and Pittsburgh.

Whether you ride a section of 10 miles, or the entire length of the trail, you are likely to see locks and lock houses, and depending on where that 10 miles is, aqueducts. These are the main features of the trail, and each is different. You will never tire of the many features. The National Park Service keeps the port-a-potties at the hiker-biker campgrounds supplied, and they do a great job keeping the park in top shape. The communities along the trail(s), and their businesses appreciate the cyclists that bring business to their towns, and they treat trail users well. If you are lucky, you will run across a local, now aging of course, who recalls the days of operation of the canal and can tell stories of their family residing along the canal, working in the boatyards, or of themselves playing amongst retired canal boats after the demise of the canal, and ice skating on the frozen canal in the winter. That is perhaps my favorite experience in all my years on the trail.
--Tom Knoerzer, Tour Director, Get Out & Go Tours LLC
A woman alone on the C&O-yes!
By Joyce Riecker in November, 2006
"As a 53 year-old woman traveling alone in June 2006, I flew from Kansas to Reagan National in Washington, DC, picked up a one-day/one-way rental car and a mountain bicycle with a backrack for a week and drove to Cumberland, MD. I loaded up my rental bicycle with panniers and dropped off the Hertz rental car at Wayne's Citgo Station in Cumberland only a few blocks from the start of the C&O. After a recent rain, the first 60 miles were muddy, but passable. The ground was firm at the bottom of the puddles so I rode right through them! For safety and comfort, I stayed at hotels and B&B's. My miles ranged from 17-52 miles per day. I stayed at the Little Orleans Lodge B&B (wonderful new place), Super 8 in Hancock, Days Inn in Shepherdstown, Norris House Inn in Leesburg, and Holiday Inn Historic in Alexandria. The history of the many locks, the grooves in the original wooden rails in the Paw Paw Tunnel, and meeting so many friendly people were super. A short detour on the Maryland Rail Trail provided a paved respite with beautiful native flowers. In Georgetown, I had a little trouble finding the Tidewater and Milepost Zero, but finally found it just east and behind the Thompson Boathouse at the mouth of Rock Creek. I rode the Mt Vernon trail to my hotel and later to Mt. Vernon and back. The Holiday Inn Historic in Alexandria stored my large suitcase while I was on the C&O and I stayed a few more days to tour the museums and zoo in DC. It was a wonderful adventure. "
Great getaway trail
By Brian Clark in August, 2006
"The C&O is a great trail if you want to get away from it all (cars, towns, people, traffic, etc.). The trail is mostly secluded, but there are many small towns it passes along the way (Oldtown, Paw Paw, Little Orleans,Hancock, Williamsport, Shepherdstown, Harpers Ferry, Brunswick, etc.). This makes through trips fairly easy to plan out as there are alot of stopping places along the way to get food, or to stay for the night. Most people riding it as one trip do it in 3 days, at around 60 miles per day. Lots of hiker/biker campsites along the trail, and lots of information about the trail on the internet to plan your trip.

I've ridden the whole length of the trail in a series of day trips over the years, just to see what it's like and to take pictures. My favorite trips would be both ends, and the middle of the trail.

Cumberland to Oldtown is a favorite, it goes from in the city, to suburbs, past farms, and then into the woods before reaching Oldtown. In Cumberland you've got the Western Maryland Railroad terminal, the C&O Canal Museum in the same building, and also The Shops At Canal Place, all at the end of the trail. Very nice place to start or end your trip at. I like to start in Cumberland (Mile 184.5) and ride down to Lock 68 at Potomac Forks (Mile 164.8) just past Oldtown. There's a nice stretch of the canal from Oldtown to Potomac Forks that's water filled, and the locals use it for fishing. In Oldtown you can go to the Schoolhouse Kitchen, which is about 1/4 to 1/2 mile East on the Main Street to get drinks and snacks.

The middle section of the canal is also a favorite, specifically Shepherdstown to Harpers Ferry. At Lock 38/mile 72.7 you can cross over the Potomac to West Virginia on the newly renovated James Rumsey Bridge using the new ramp they've built at the West/left side of the bridge foundation. Along the way to Harpers Ferry you pass Antietam campgrounds and the aqueduct, several locks, the Shinhan kilns, and get a great view of the Potomac around Harpers Ferry. You'll often see lots of boaters in the river in the Summer, especially on weekends. Climb the circular steps at the railroad bridge and go across the river to check out the historic town of Harpers Ferry. Back on the canal side of the river the view from the overlook at Maryland Heights is well worth the climb to get up there...bring your camera...the best time to take pictures is morning and early afternoon.

My other favorite section is from Great Falls to Georgetown. This is the most used section of the trail, especially on weekends, but there's a good reason for that. Great Falls is a must-see stop when riding the canal, and the view of the falls is excellent. The whole area around Great Falls Tavern and Widewater is very picturesque. The canal trail still has a secluded feel to it for most of the trip from here into Washington D.C., and you get a real suprise at the end of the trail when you find yourself actually IN the city at the end of the trail.

Other favorite points along the trail....Paw Paw Tunnel, Round Top Cement Mill, Western Maryland Trail near Hancock, Fort Frederick, Conococheague Aqueduct and Cushwa's basin in Williamsport, riding along the cliffs near Dam #5 and McMahon's Mill, Monocacy Aqueduct, and White's Ferry.

The actual canal itself varies greatly in it's condition depending on location...it ranges from restored canal, to water filled swampy ditch, to barely recognizable tree-filled shallow impression. If you plan on stopping while you're biking or are hiking or camping along the canal bring bug repellant...the mosquitos can be pretty bad in mid-Summer in some of the more wooded remote locations. "
The next 15
By G. Daniel in July, 2006
"My wife and I (and dogs) have been biking this trail from Cumberland to D.C. every Fall for the last 15+ years (except once when it was closed due to flooding) and hope to continue for the next 15+ years. We started with a 3 1/2 day trip but kept going slower and slower to enjoy it more. We have been including the Great Allgheny Passage and starting at Boston Pa. for the past 5 years and now take about 2 weeks. We're slow, I know, but that just gives us more time to enjoy the scenery and camping. "
Time of my life
By kelly connolly in May, 2006
I had the time of my life riding the C&O and Great Allegheny Passage in May 2006. It was beyond my greatest expectations---a thoroughly enjoyable adventure from beginning to end.
Way beyond my expectations
By kelly in May, 2006
"I thoroughly enjoyed cycling this path. It is packed with wildlife, wildflowers, and picturesque views. In addition, I highly recommend the great allegheny passage."
This trail is great
By Marsha in August, 2005
"I'm training for the Marine Corp Marathon and run on this trail for my long runs on the weekends. I find that this trail is the best trail that I have run on since I started training. It's dirt so it's easy on my knees and it's level so there are no hills (I get that training during the week.) I love it and I seem to run into the same people every week when I'm running, so I see familiar faces. I highly recommend running on this trail."
Another great ride
By Tom Prall in May, 2004
"I did this trail in May of 2004 for the second time. This time we went the opposite way, from Cumberland to Georgetown, so our ride was all downhill. We stayed at B&Bs and at a family member's place and completed the trail in 7 days with 2 nights in Harpers Ferry to give us a rest day. I highly recommend doing the whole trail. I liked all of the sections but do it by the end of May or after August to avoid the buggiest, busiest, hottest times. Rich history and incredible flora and fauna."
Terrific Bike Camping Trail!
By David Wayne Fillilngham in March, 2004
"For most of the trail length, there are free little hiker/biker primitive campsites, with water pumps and portable toilets. The trail tends to be muddy if there has been rain any time in the previous three days. A hybrid or mountain bike is required in many parts due to the rocky trail."
Granddaddy of them all...
By Greg W in September, 2003
"Back in my college days (1969) a group of my friends and I took the B&O's Capital Limited (pre-Amtrak), with our bikes checked in the baggage car (no boxes!), from Pittsburgh to Cumberland. There we experienced for the first time ever the joys of riding on an exclusive trail. We did a round trip between Cumberland and Oldtown, including a trip over the toll bridge into West Virginia. And we had more than enough time to catch the evening train back to Pittsburgh.

Those days are gone, and new cycling trails abound (thanks to Rails to Trails, among others!), but the C&O Canal is still unique and incredible. I've never ridden all of it, but I've done most of it in sections, and despite the washouts and detours in places, and the ever-present roots and mosquitos, it still is the granddaddy of all trails - and one of the best!

I-68 makes it convenient for me in Pittsburgh as I can be in Cumberland in about 2 1/2 hours. I often ride the Oldtown-Cumberland segment (recommended) as well as the sections east and west out of Hancock. Little Orleans is another area that is a good place to start. You can stay at the Town Hill B&B (if you're not into camping), right on the top of the hill (with a great view) and only a few miles from the Little Orleans trail access point.

Don't miss it. It's like the Grand Canyon or the Statue of Liberty. A legend.

Cheers!"
THE BEST
By THE FRED in August, 2003
"I rode on the trail with my son Nick, my friend Tony and his son Tony for four days. This is the best trail I have rode in 15 years of riding trails. In one day we saw so much wildlife I could not list what we rode by. And don't forget the historic aspects of this trail. The tunnel at Paw Paw is the most impressive structure on the canal. If you can only visit for one day I suggest riding from Hancock to Williamport."
Love the Trail
By Raymond in July, 2003
"I live just outside of Cumberland, Md, and I visit the trail often. I have yet to hike the whole trail but plan to in 2004. I love the trail and love hiking and camping on it. The longest hike I've done on it was from Paw Paw Tunnel to Cumberland (about 30 miles)."
High point of the year!
By Mr. Ralph F. Ritter in February, 2003
"Since I don't have anyone to pick me up at the other end, I do the trail in parts. This has always been the high point of the year for me! There are always new and interesting things to see on the trail and I like camping out and hearing the train, it just seems to rock me to sleep. It seems that I always meet new and interesting people every trip! "
Fine trail
By pradecki in August, 2002
"I frequently ride this trail along the 75 miles around D.C. It is flat and well maintained. There are scattered muddy spots after rain esp away from Great Falls. If riding miles through woods bore you, go elsewhere. It is a good workout and a few miles away (north) from Great Falls the trail is suprisingly uncrowded on weekdays.

I did 35 miles today (8/1/02) and saw three other riders. Busier on weekends, and especially around population centers like H Ferry/DC. The only car traffic is from a few campgrounds and boat launching ramps. A nice ride, a treasure for long rides. The surface is gravel/dirt with a few roots. NOT FOR ROAD BIKES."
Mother & Daughter loved trail
By Linda Lunney in June, 2002
"Mother (50) and daughter (23) biked trail from Georgetown to Cumberland, May 20-24. One short day to hike in Harpers Ferry. Except for the 30 miles around Whites Ferry, we loved it. That part was dull, just like riding thru woods. Spectacular scenery at H. Ferry and after passing Hancock, as you enter the Appalachians. We will definitely do it again."
Very Nice
By E Z Rollin in May, 2002
"I rode about 50 or miles of this trail into Georgetown about 15 years ago. I am surprised that some have found this a poor trail; it is actually very nice. To find yourself in the center of a great city (Washington, DC) after riding without cars is wonderful.

I currently live at the beginning of the proposed Willapa Hills Trail and wish we had such a good trail here on the Pacific Coast Bicycle route. Ther proposed trail is on the Milwaukee, St. Paul and Chicago RR grade acquired in the early 1900's. Too bad it is not on the nearby Northern Pacific abandonned grade owned by Weyerhauser Co. built on the federal land grants! This grade is a logging road right of way."
Rough uninteresting ride
By Tom Scannell in May, 2002
"We did Cumberland to Shepherdstown staying at Berkeley Springs the first night and Bavarian Inn at Shepherdstown which is neat. This is not a great ride. The trail is gravel and mostly unscenic unless you like a ride in the woods on a two lane path (for miles and miles). Potomac RIver is nearby but mostly out of sight and the canal is in total disrepair and mostly a dry ditch. Some interesting old stonework and lock houses, many birds and other wildlife but I would not do it again unless it gets paved or the surface is improved somehow. "
"GREAT,GREAT TRAIL"
By RICH HALL in November, 2001
WE DID 100 MILES OF THE TRAIL-eND OF JULY.SHADED-BEST TO GO FROM MD. TO WASH.DC-ALL DOWN GRADE AND NOT MUCH OF THAT.WE STAYED TWO NIGHTS AT INNS.WOULD GET LIFT TO STARTING PT.IN FUTURE.VERY SCENIC. MY GROUP HAD 17 PEOPLE.NEAT TO END UP AT CAPITAL AND TAKE A DAY WITH THE BIKES ALONG THE MALL.WE HAD AGES FROM 8 TO 60(ME).VERY WELL MAINTAINED.
Scenery & Seclusion
By Paul Breitenbach in April, 2001
"Perhaps the most scenic section of the trail is between Sharpsburg and Harpers Ferry. Cliffs, caves, rapids, ruins, and a Civil War Battlefield nearby. You will see deer and occasionally bear on this stretch also. Start at Snyder's Landing (Sharpsburg), go to Harper's Ferry for lunch and return."