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I just finished a two-day solo tour (Cumberland to Williamsport, Williamsport to DC) and had an incredible experience despite the rain and the tough going over a few stretches. I hear a lot of criticism about the C & O, particularly when compared to the GAP (which I have also done). I appreciate the contrast and hope that the C&O retains its historic character as a more rugged towpath (not a rail trail). That said, the conditions on the east side of Paw Paw and from White’s Ferry to DC were challenging (again, I like the changing surfaces). Highlights: wilderness character, Paw Paw Tunnel, sycamores between Harper’s Ferry and Antietam, Great Falls, Monocacy, Point of Rocks station and the towns.
My son and I rode the C&O the first week of June '25 as part of a ride from Pittsburgh to Washington DC.
I am going to preface this review making it clear that it was an unusually wet Spring and significant damage has occurred due to flooding. Kudos to the efforts to repair the damage and keep the trail open. There were numerous detours off of the trail but it was open and passable. However, had I not taken this into consideration, and had not just completed the GAP as a comparison, I would have rated the trail 2 stars.
Here are my key issues rated from most, to least, significant:
1) The terminus of the trail in Georgetown is inaccessible due to construction. We rode 334 miles in 5 days to unceremoniously end our accomplishment carrying our bikes up a series of stairs, only to encounter detour signs that literally pointed in all four directions. After a half hour walking through urine-laden alleys searching for mile 0, a bicycle cop told us that we were as close as we could get. Our victory picture was taken next to a detour sign, each of us providing a middle-finger salute.
2) The trail surface through the Paw Paw tunnel can only be described as interconnecting pot holes filled with 6" of water. Had there not been other traffic in the tunnel, it may have been rideable. Just accept that you will get the opportunity to stretch your legs for a half-mile walk in the dark. Your shoes will eventually drain and dry by the time you arrive in DC.
3) For 15-20 miles south of the Paw Paw tunnel the trail is unmaintained. The riding surface is basically sunken truck tire tracks, separated by a hump of uncut weeds. The tracks themselves were devoid of any gravel which ensured that you were riding in either water or mud. The weeds on both sides of the trail had yet to be trimmed and had encroached into the tracks. The good news is that we were concentrating so hard on keeping our bikes upright in the slop, we didn't have time to think about the ticks. Anyone who has hiked the Adirondack high peaks knows exactly what I am describing.
4) Most of the trail repairs have been made with loose, coarse, crushed stone. I was fortunate to be riding a mountain bike with 2" tires at 60psi. My son was riding a gravel bike with 40mm tires which mean he was riding sideways much of the time. He ended up riding a combined total of 400 miles considering the lateral component of his travel.
5) Where washouts had yet to be filled with the previously mentioned stone, you have to cross crevices 6-8 inches deep. Not such a big problem if you were travelling slow enough to identify them before jamming your arms through your shoulders and ramming your saddle through the softer tissues of your rear end.
6) Having camped in Assateague for half my life, I thought that I knew aggressive mosquitoes. However, since the trail is totally devoid of any breeze, the stabbing critters locate you as soon as your bike comes to a halt. The good news is that we saved time taking breaks.
I will be posting a 5-star review for the GAP next. If you average the two scores together, the total trail experience was a 4. That still makes the ride from the 'Burgh to DC worthwhile. Just be prepared for the unexpected challenges.
This is my favorite paved trail. All the bumps and roots are gone since the repaving project was completed in fall 2024. Hancock is the town at about the middle mileage. The western end is quiet through the woods. There are very few road crossings and it's pretty flat grade. Berkeley Springs WV is only 6 miles south of Hancock MD and that's a cute tourist town to visit. There's also a good bike store in Hancock.
Ok section, kind of dull. Agriculture & cows. Found a bit of shade by a grain elevator for lunch. Several washouts filled with tumbleweeds as you get closer to Lind.
The railroad bridge appears to be the only way to access the C&O Canal Towpath directly from Harpers Ferry. It's narrow and congested in the warmer months, and walking a bike across the bridge can be challenging. More difficult is the tight spiral staircase descending to the towpath from the bridge. It's not exceptionally strenuous with a light bicycle but I wouldn't attempt it with a heavy E-bike. Once at the bottom, the towpath is a beautiful cycling experience and it's also an easy walk to the Maryland Heights trail with its Civil War fortifications and fantastic overlook of Harpers Ferry.
I just completed walking the main trail in both directions. Two days of hiking, with about 10,000 steps each day. I started by parking in a shopping mall lot about 1/3 of a mile from the eastern end trail head. In retrospect, the trail is near residential homes. I could have parked on the street and accessed the trail with a public access point. It is a lovely trail. The one downside is that i was never really in the woods. From almost every point on the trail, one can see the back of somebody’s house. This is more pronounced on the eastern half. The prettiest is within Ellanor C Lawrence Park.
Easy walk on an asphalt trail. Almost all in trees. 1.4 miles or so up, 1.4 miles back. Easy parking at both ends.
The view from the dam, with the lake and fall colors is magnificent.
I biked from Pittsburgh to DC (GAP and C&O trails combined) 9/8 thru 9/14/24. This review is for the C&O only. Weather – excellent. Scenery- beautiful. Accommodations – very good. Trail surfaces –highly variable from narrow dirt paths laced with muddy holes to relatively smooth, hardpacked dirt to loose gravel (better for a pickup truck than a bicycle!). From 10 miles south of Great Falls into DC the trail/road was especially rough. I was riding an Off-road bike with 40 MM wide tires and momentarily lost front tire stability in MANY spots due to loose gravel (especially on the sloped paths leading into & out of lock areas). My biggest safety concern were the numerous concrete bridges over creeks & culverts that had ZERO guard rails, warning signs or even yellow paint. The bridge widths were narrower than the trail requiring the biker to NOTICE and move more to the center for safety. If a biker went off the side of any of these bridges, I’d expect serious injuries or worse. The worst safety hazard was at Lock 38. Approaching the lock from the southwest side, the (main) trail leads right across the top of the lock wall- that is 3 to 4 ft wide with only an outer rail – very dangerous. The drop off to the grassy floor below was about 7-9 feet straight down. I was in a group of riders that suddenly saw this “tightrope” situation and jammed on their brakes. (Nobody realized we should have diverted onto a narrow, unmarked path that led downward through the lock.) Fortunately, everyone stopped safely; walked their bikes down a slope and on to the safe path through the bottom of the lock. A simple, cheap sign could prevent the near-miss accidents at this spot.
I’m really disappointed that this National Park hasn’t (at least) marked these safety hazards. Considering all the hazards and the rough gravel, I think this C&O Towpath trail merits 2 stars.
We started in Akron and rode about 18 miles north. Loved it!!!
I recently walked virtually every foot of the 40+ mile long Jerry Connolly Cross County trail, in both directions. This includes the part of the route which is not a trail at all, but a 2-mile long sidewalk along a busy road. I would start by driving to a starting point and walk about 5000 steps in one direction, stopping at a convenient point where I could park my truck nearby. Then, I walked back along the same trail. Most of the southern part of the trail, from the Occoquan river to Arlington Blvd is paved in asphalt. Almost all of the northern part, from the Oakmont rec center to Great Falls park is a rough trail. This part would be quite muddy after a rain. Most of the trail parallels a stream, from Difficult Run in the north, to Accotink Creek in the middle, to Pohick Creek in the south. Trail markers range from excellent in some parts to hardly noticeable in other parts. Having Google Maps on a phone app was super helpful at times when I accidently veered from the trail, or was at a point with a fork in the trail. There are several signs along the way with a map of the trail in the near vicinity. These were necessary and helpful when the trail came to an apparent end and the resumption point was several yards away. Almost all of the trail is an easy walk with just a few steep-ish ascents and descents. Most of the trail is really quite pretty. Overall, a very fulfilling experience for me.
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