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I just finished a two-day solo tour (Cumberland to Williamsport, Williamsport to DC) and had an incredible experience despite the rain and the tough going over a few stretches. I hear a lot of criticism about the C & O, particularly when compared to the GAP (which I have also done). I appreciate the contrast and hope that the C&O retains its historic character as a more rugged towpath (not a rail trail). That said, the conditions on the east side of Paw Paw and from White’s Ferry to DC were challenging (again, I like the changing surfaces). Highlights: wilderness character, Paw Paw Tunnel, sycamores between Harper’s Ferry and Antietam, Great Falls, Monocacy, Point of Rocks station and the towns.
My son and I rode the C&O the first week of June '25 as part of a ride from Pittsburgh to Washington DC.
I am going to preface this review making it clear that it was an unusually wet Spring and significant damage has occurred due to flooding. Kudos to the efforts to repair the damage and keep the trail open. There were numerous detours off of the trail but it was open and passable. However, had I not taken this into consideration, and had not just completed the GAP as a comparison, I would have rated the trail 2 stars.
Here are my key issues rated from most, to least, significant:
1) The terminus of the trail in Georgetown is inaccessible due to construction. We rode 334 miles in 5 days to unceremoniously end our accomplishment carrying our bikes up a series of stairs, only to encounter detour signs that literally pointed in all four directions. After a half hour walking through urine-laden alleys searching for mile 0, a bicycle cop told us that we were as close as we could get. Our victory picture was taken next to a detour sign, each of us providing a middle-finger salute.
2) The trail surface through the Paw Paw tunnel can only be described as interconnecting pot holes filled with 6" of water. Had there not been other traffic in the tunnel, it may have been rideable. Just accept that you will get the opportunity to stretch your legs for a half-mile walk in the dark. Your shoes will eventually drain and dry by the time you arrive in DC.
3) For 15-20 miles south of the Paw Paw tunnel the trail is unmaintained. The riding surface is basically sunken truck tire tracks, separated by a hump of uncut weeds. The tracks themselves were devoid of any gravel which ensured that you were riding in either water or mud. The weeds on both sides of the trail had yet to be trimmed and had encroached into the tracks. The good news is that we were concentrating so hard on keeping our bikes upright in the slop, we didn't have time to think about the ticks. Anyone who has hiked the Adirondack high peaks knows exactly what I am describing.
4) Most of the trail repairs have been made with loose, coarse, crushed stone. I was fortunate to be riding a mountain bike with 2" tires at 60psi. My son was riding a gravel bike with 40mm tires which mean he was riding sideways much of the time. He ended up riding a combined total of 400 miles considering the lateral component of his travel.
5) Where washouts had yet to be filled with the previously mentioned stone, you have to cross crevices 6-8 inches deep. Not such a big problem if you were travelling slow enough to identify them before jamming your arms through your shoulders and ramming your saddle through the softer tissues of your rear end.
6) Having camped in Assateague for half my life, I thought that I knew aggressive mosquitoes. However, since the trail is totally devoid of any breeze, the stabbing critters locate you as soon as your bike comes to a halt. The good news is that we saved time taking breaks.
I will be posting a 5-star review for the GAP next. If you average the two scores together, the total trail experience was a 4. That still makes the ride from the 'Burgh to DC worthwhile. Just be prepared for the unexpected challenges.
Enjoyable trail. Coming from the east, we tried to find the trailhead off Winslow only to find that the road was closed. And google maps routed us to a two track just down the road that you couldn’t really get a car in. We eventually made our way to the west end at Villiere where there was parking at the trailhead. We had a trailer with five bikes. We rode as far as Punxsutawney and had dinner and beers at The Burrow.
Great trail..been riding it for years, from various trailhead sites. Disappointed to see a roofing company has placed several advertising placards along the trail in Ebensburg near the West Street crossing/entrance. This ruins the scenic beauty of the trail. Please remove before “others “ show up.
Four of us rode this trail on Memorial Day. Not many people were out riding. We only rode from Saltsburg to the Conemaugh dam. At age 78, hauling a bike up and down stairs at Bow Ridge is not for us. I love this trail! The first 4+ miles was typical tree covered rail trail along the river. Then it turns interesting as the trail goes cross-country with many changes in elevation. The hill just past Elder run is very steep with some loose gravel that can be a challenge. Then there is a long downhill run thru the woods. But these are the type of things that made the trail interesting. More trails should offer some natural diversity, even if it requires a parallel route to the main trail.
Day 2 of our ride to complete all 16.5 miles (and back). We parked at Flowing Spring Road/Trailhead and biked to Williamsburg and back. Another great day on the trail. This trail is crushed limestone with the exception of the Williamsburg area, which is asphalt paved. We enjoyed the historic Grannis Station, mile 13 on the trail.
Having traveled over 3 hours, we split this trail up over 2 days and made an overnighter out of it. So much history along this trail, old foundations, and locks & canals, with many interesting sights. We also stopped at Mt. Etna old furnace, near the trail. Day 1 cycled from mile 0 in Alfarata to Williamsburg, mile 11. Trail surface is crushed stone except the Williamsburg section is paved. We stayed in nearby Altoona which offers several hotels and many restaurants.
PA-Cumberland 5/2023. Loved this trail with lots of places to camp, a winding and entertaining trail, views of the river, tunnels, small towns along the way. I particularly liked Frostburg and camped two nights. The switchbacks up to town aren't as miserable as some describe and the view is rewarding. The Toasted Goat in Hotel Gunter is an old hotel worth a walk around and a meal. Check out the basement holding cell and speakeasy.
While in the area, we stopped at this trail. We only pedaled up the first one mile due to it was later in the afternoon and we had already ridden 12 miles earlier. Parking on Igou Road just outside of Bellwood. Trail surface was crushed limestone which eventually turned to game lands access road, we didn't go out that far. The entire trail is 6.2 miles. Elevation at mile 00 Igou Road is 1,240 and mile 6.2 it's 2,180. Good workout uphill climb but nice downhill coast on the way back. There is a parking lot at the top. It's on Skyline Drive, and it's in State Game Lands 158.
Having ridden from Rosston to East Brady in 2021, a buddy and I decided to ride the newly opened southern end of the Armstrong. In a nutshell, It is not as nice. Starting again from the Rosston boat marina we headed south. Right away the surface is not as smooth as going north. Instead of a fine limestone sand, the surface appears to be a sort of fairly small gravel, close to what is known as crusher run but not quite. It is still quite rideable however. This section of the trail has little to see for quite a ways. Eventually, you come upon some riverside cottages. These are not as nice as the ones up towards East Brady but they’re okay. That’s it till you hit Schenley where you come upon abandoned or near abandoned factories - signs of the industrial decay in the area. At the end is the highlight of the trip, the newly opened bridge over the Kiskiminetas River. They did a very nice job on this and it’s pretty long. After the bridge we headed up the Kiski on the trail (also called the Leechburg Towpath). This section was less appealing. Right away there is some kind of rental campground for campers right along the river with campers packed in and there is a dirt road immediately to the left of the trail. It takes a while but you get past these. The ride in the woods is punctuated by acid mine drainage several places and then you come upon the large, abandoned Allegheny Ludlum steel plant. After riding past this for a ways the trail just pops out onto what was obviously an access road to the factory at one point. We weren’t sure if the trail continued but kept riding up the road. No one we saw knew either, there were no signs. After a ways we came to a gate across the road with a bike bypass and there was an Armstrong Trails sign there. This may be the end of the trail but we rode on a bit and saw the familiar green and white bike route signs and followed on. They led us on some bike paths and low traffic streets in Leechburg to the Leechburg Riverfront Park. If you ride this way be sure to stop here. They have picnic tables and a gazebo and it’s a very nice rest and lunch spot. After lunch we continued on as the signs took us on more side streets to the Hyde Park Foot Bridge - a suspension type bridge across the Kiski. Definitely worth the short ride. That was the end of the trail and we headed back. Note that there is less shade on this trail and we were cooked by the sun on the way back. While I gave the north end of the Armstrong four stars this section barely rates three. Stick to the north section if you’re riding for the first time.
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